An electric fishing reel is not just a conventional reel with a motor bolted on. At its core it's a reel with a built-in electric motor, powered by a 12V battery, that winds line in for you at the push of a button or the nudge of a lever — which takes the grind out of deep-drop fishing, where you'd otherwise be hand-cranking hundreds of metres of line against a heavy sinker. You still set the drag and fight the fish; the motor just handles the heavy lifting of getting bait, jig or fish back up from depth.
Line capacity, winding power, drag, power supply and cable management all need to work together. For deep-drop fishing, the most useful specification is often the one that removes a bottleneck in your actual setup rather than the biggest number on the box.

Line capacity is often the first deciding factor
Deep water, current and long deployments all consume line. Capacity should be checked using the diameter of the line you will actually spool, not a generic “PE” number copied from another brand. A larger reel gives more reserve, but it also adds weight and bulk to the rod setup.
DroneFisher's current Daiwa Tanacom listing provides a clean comparison between two sizes:
| Specification | Tanacom 800 | Tanacom 1200 |
|---|---|---|
| Gear ratio / line per crank | 2.1:1 / 58.7 cm | 2.1:1 / 58.7 cm |
| Bearings | 4 | 4 |
| Weight | 1,910 g | 2,040 g |
| J-Braid capacity | 0.42 mm / 800 m | 0.42 mm / 1,000 m |
| Maximum drag | 22 kg | 22 kg |
| Regular winding power | 8 kg | 8 kg |
| Maximum winding power | 11 kg | 11 kg |
For this pair, the 1200's obvious advantage is capacity: an extra 200 m at the listed 0.42 mm line diameter. The trade-off is roughly 130 g more reel weight.
Drag and winding power are different specifications
Maximum drag describes the resistance the drag system can apply to line. Winding power describes the motor's ability to retrieve under load. A reel can have a strong drag system and still not be intended to winch its full drag rating continuously.
When comparing electric reels, separate these numbers:
| Specification | Use it to evaluate |
|---|---|
| Maximum drag | How much drag pressure the reel can apply at the upper end |
| Regular winding power | More representative continuous lifting capability where the manufacturer publishes it |
| Maximum / instant winding power | Peak motor capability, not necessarily a continuous operating target |
| Retrieve speed | How quickly line can be recovered, usually varying with load and speed setting |
Check the power system before buying
Daiwa's current Tanacom U family is documented as a 12V Dendoh system with an acceptable operating voltage range of 12–16.8V. Daiwa also publishes current demand figures for that family: around 3A no-load, 10A at stall and up to 30A maximum power.
That means the battery, cable, connector and any adapter all need to be suitable for the reel. A battery with a large amp-hour rating but an inadequate output path can still be the wrong choice.
What to check when matching a battery and lead
This is one of the most common questions once you've settled on a reel, and it matters — the reel is only as good as the power feeding it. Some things worth thinking through, alongside whatever your reel's manual specifies:
- Amp-hour (Ah) capacity: larger Ah ratings mean longer runtime between charges, but also more size and weight to carry or mount. Match the battery to a realistic day's fishing rather than buying the biggest one available.
- Voltage range: confirm the reel's accepted range rather than assuming that anything labelled “12V” will suit. A fully charged lithium pack can sit meaningfully above 12V nominal.
- The power lead: voltage drop and heat build-up both increase with cable length and current draw, so a longer run needs a heavier conductor to deliver the same voltage at the reel. The simplest safe approach is to use the power cord supplied with the reel, or a lead specified by the reel or battery manufacturer as an equivalent, rather than improvising one.
- Circuit protection: an inline fuse or breaker protects both the reel and the boat's wiring. It needs to be sized to the cable and the reel's rated current draw — follow the reel manufacturer's guidance, your battery supplier's wiring kit instructions, or a qualified marine electrician if you're wiring into a boat's system.
- Connectors and terminals: undersized or corroded connections are a common cause of poor performance that gets blamed on the battery.
None of this replaces checking your specific reel's manual — voltage range and peak current do vary by model and generation — but it's a sensible way to think about sizing a setup rather than guessing.
What features are useful in practice?
Daiwa's electric-reel systems illustrate common features worth comparing:
- Power Lever: variable retrieve-speed/power control.
- Line counter: tracks line out and retrieved depth.
- Programmable auto stop: can stop retrieve at a configured point.
- Automated jigging: available on some models for programmed lure/bait movement.
- Manual winding: useful as a fallback and for fine control.
- Washable / sealed electronics: relevant in marine environments, subject to the exact maintenance instructions.
Rod and mounting considerations
An electric reel is heavier than many conventional reels and can place substantial load into the reel seat and rod. Check that the rod is designed for the reel size and fishing load. If the setup is used from the beach or with drone-deployed baits, also think about where the power cable sits relative to the rod holder, sand and moving line.
Electric reel buying checklist
- Determine required working depth/deployment distance plus spool reserve.
- Choose the actual braid diameter and confirm manufacturer capacity at that diameter.
- Compare regular and maximum winding power separately from drag.
- Check reel weight and rod/reel-seat suitability.
- Verify operating voltage and peak current requirements.
- Confirm battery connector and power-cable compatibility.
- Consider controls such as line counter, auto stop and variable-speed retrieve.
- Plan how the battery and cable will be secured and kept clear of saltwater and moving tackle.
Frequently asked questions
How do electric fishing reels work?
An electric motor inside the reel drives the spool, winding line in when you press a button or move a control lever, with a separate 12V battery supplying the power. You still set the drag and manage the fight; the motor takes over the repetitive, tiring part of cranking line up from deep water.
How do I choose the right electric fishing reel?
There's no single “best” reel — the right choice depends on the depth you fish, the line diameter you'll actually spool, the load the reel will routinely retrieve, and the power source you can realistically carry. Work through those four questions and the checklist above, compare capacity at your chosen line diameter, and read winding power separately from drag. Current models and specifications are listed on our electric fishing reels collection.
How much does an electric fishing reel cost?
Electric reels cost considerably more than comparable conventional reels, because you're paying for the motor, the electronics, the sealing and the control system as well as the reel itself. Price generally rises with line capacity and winding power. For current pricing, check the electric fishing reels collection rather than relying on general figures.
What size battery do I need for an electric fishing reel?
Match the battery to the reel's specified operating voltage range — for the Tanacom U family, for example, Daiwa lists an acceptable range of 12–16.8V — and choose an amp-hour capacity that comfortably covers a day's fishing. Also make sure the power lead and circuit protection are suitable for the reel's rated current draw, which for that family is published as up to 30A at maximum power. Always confirm against your own reel's manual, as figures differ between models and generations.
Can I use an electric reel without a boat's wiring, for beach or drone-deployed fishing?
Yes — many anglers run electric reels from a portable 12V battery pack rather than boat wiring, which suits beach setups and drone-deployed baits nicely. The same compatibility checks still apply: correct voltage range, a suitable power lead, appropriate circuit protection, and a battery kept clear of sand, saltwater spray and moving line.
Browse electric fishing reels and electric reel batteries and power, then read the battery compatibility guide.